Qvevri: Georgia’s Ancient Art of Clay Vessel Winemaking

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qvevri is the Georgian word for a large, egg-shaped clay vessel, representing one of the oldest known ways of making wine in the world. Some have been buried underground to the neck, in continuous use for more than 8,000 years; it’s now a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, recognized since 2013. Each qvevri is handmade by a master artisan whose secrets are passed on generation after generation. The Craft of Creation

A qvevri can take as long as three months to make. Masters coil special clay, from only a few sources, and gradually build the vessel layer by layer. Beeswax is applied inside to seal the clay, also for an ideal environment for fermentation. They range in dramatic size, from 100-liter vessels up to 4,000-liter giants found in commercial wineries.
Underground Process

Qvevri are buried in the earth neck-high, relying on natural temperature stabilization. The soil temperatures are relatively constant at 12-14°C (54-57°F), ideal for the fermentation and maturation of wine. This temperature constancy, along with the vessel’s ovoid shape, naturally circulates the fermenting wine, moving the grape skins, stems, and seeds-called chacha in Georgian-up and down within the vessel.

Traditional Fermentation

This wine comes from a whole different paradigm of winemaking-fermentation in qvevri usually proceeds with grape skins, stems, and pips. White wines, produced this way, labeled “amber” or “orange,” reach full color saturation, tannins, and complexity of flavors. The method starts during rtveli-harvest-when the grapes are crushed and the whole grape mass is transferred into the qvevri. Fermentation starts thanks to the wild yeasts present on the skins of the grapes.

The Role of Time

Fermentation and maturation in qvevri may take anything from six months to two years. Over this time, the wine acquires special features due to extended contact with grape solids and the clay vessel itself. The porosity of the clay allows small oxygen exchange, which participates in the development of the wine while retaining freshness.

Regional Variations

Over time different qvevri traditions have developed in various parts of Georgia. In general Kakheti is long maceration whereas Imereti is typically very short skin contact. The location and depth to which the qvevri are buried varies by region with different soil composition and climate conditions. Some regions have always traditionally lined their qvevri on the exterior with lime, where others do not.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Qvevri require much care and maintenance. Vessels are cleaned after every use with traditional tools such as cherry bark brushes and lime water. Sometimes, a small fire of dried grape vines is lit inside to sterilize the vessel. The cleaning of the qvevri is considered sacred, and often prayers and blessings are said.

Modern Applications

While deeply traditional, qvevri winemaking has gained international attention. Modern winemakers worldwide are experimenting with qvevri, recognizing their value in producing natural wines. Georgian producers are combining ancient methods with modern understanding of wine chemistry, creating wines that bridge past and present.

Cultural Significance

Qvevri winemaking is also deeply connected to Georgian identity: qvevri are often blessed by priests before they are used; and most families have small qvevri cellars-the so-called marani-for producing wine for private consumption. That close link with wine production shaped traditional Georgian architecture: the standard traditional house design had to do with wine storage.

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